Only 135 km north of Jodhpur, Nagaur was once situated on the important
trade routes from the Arabian Sea ports to Delhi, and is one of Rajasthan's
most historic cities. A medieval prize Nagaur has borne witness to
almost every northern Indian dynasty of significance, including the
mighty Mughals, and was an integral part of Marwar from the 17th Century.
The Royal Camp
The
Royal Camp at Nagaur is pitched on an old polo ground within the historic
walls of the Ahichattragarh Fort, a spectacular Rajput-Mughal bastion
that dates as far back as the 5th Century. The tents themselves are
stylish and luxurious, with attached baths, and the surroundings;
a unique complex of magnificent palaces, airy pavilions and intricate
waterways; truly magical. The Emperor Akbar visited Ahichattragarh
more than once and to dine at his Akbari Mahal with candlelight and
live music is an experience rare even for Rajasthan.
The Fair The best time to camp in Nagaur is during the famous annual
live-stock fair, second only to the Pushkar Fair; in fact, perhaps
in some ways superior to Pushkar because it is as yet "unspoilt".
Thousands of camels and horses, and the famed Nagori Bull, which of
all the Indian strains most resembles the one on the Mohenjodaro Seal,
camp around the city which becomes a veritable market those few days.
It is Rajasthan at its best and brightest.
The fair takes place sometime in January/February, the exact date
ascertained by the Indian lunar calendar (see table below).
Monuments Nagaur is an extremely interesting little township with
innumerable monuments tucked away in its charming streets and lanes.
There are some lovely old Mughal mosques and the cenotaph of Amar
Singh Rathore, who lived in Ahichattragarh and dared to defy the Emperor
Shah Jahan himself, is a must see.
The Country The Royal Camp in Ahichattragarh makes an ideal base
to explore the surrounding country. It is a land best seen on camel;
rolling scrub, the occasional group of sand dunes and the rarer little
lake, brilliant yellow mustard fields, herds of wild Chinkara (Indian
Gazelle) and Black-Buck (Indian Antelope), glorious sun-sets...